This bicycle wheel does not contain explosives
United Kingdom | Scotland | Anno 1974
28 – Sunday 15 September | Baston
29 – Monday 16 September | Baston – Hauxton | 93 km
30 – Tuesday 17 September | Hauxton – London | 97 km
31 – Wednesday 18 September | London
32 – Thursday 19 September | London – Sturry | 111 km
33 – Friday 20 September | Sturry – Diksmuide | 107 km
34 – Saturday 21 September | Diksmuide – Willebroek | 132 km
35 – Sunday 22 September | Willebroek – Overpelt | 97 km
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28 – Sunday 15 September | Baston
At the small grassy mound of a T-shaped intersection in Baston, we’ve found a suitable spot for our tent. For us, it is a place where we can set up our tent for one night without it costing us a penny and without getting into trouble with anyone. Wild camping, they call it. Our presence at this unusual location doesn’t go unnoticed. Each time a car passes by, cheerful honking ringed out.
It turns out not everyone is quite so enthusiastic. Around midnight, we are awakened by rummaging around our bikes. It's obvious that someone is trying to steal our bikes.
But before we can wriggle out of our sleeping bags, a powerful beam of a flashlight shamelessly pierces the tent. An authoritative voice that does not tolerate any contradiction wants to know who we are, where we come from, and what our plans are. Humbly, we explain to the police officer that we are from Belgium, have crossed Scotland, and are now on our way home.
To our utter astonishment, he is satisfied with that. As long as our stay does not exceed twenty-four hours, there appear to be no legal objections to our form of wild camping. We are glad to learn this on day 28 of our journey.
29 – Monday 16 September | Baston – Hauxton | 93 km
Once again, things are going well for us. The weather is beautiful, the route is almost as flat as a pool table, and technical problems are absent. Before lunch, we’ve already covered more than sixty kilometres. That's convenient, because it means we can visit the university city of Cambridge at our leisure.
This university dates back to 1209. That makes it more than two hundred years older than the one in Leuven (Belgium). But still, it is younger than its eternal rival Oxford, since in a way, Cambridge is a spin-off of Oxford, as it was students from Oxford who fled the public anger there to establish a new university here.
In a way, Cambridge is a spin-off of Oxford
Cambridge – King's College |
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Cambridge – Clare College, King's College Chapel |
World-famous university buildings immerse the city centre in a historical atmosphere. King's College, to start with, with its beautiful chapel from the 15th century, home to the famous King's College Choir. Or Clare College on the bank of the river Cam, after which the city is named. A few couples take advantage of the lovely weather to row peacefully in a small boat on the calm water.
They still cherish the alleged apple tree from which the famous apple is said to have fallen
Cambridge – River Cam, Clare College |
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Cambridge – Trinity College – Great Court |
Trinity College, on the other hand, is the institution that once counted Isaac Newton among its students and later as one of its fellows. They still cherish the alleged apple tree from which the famous apple is said to have fallen, inspiring Newton to formulate the law of gravity.
Cambridge – Trinity College – King Edwards Tower |
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Bad luck |
About five kilometres past Cambridge, we find a suitable spot for our tent between the meadows in Hauxton. The proximity of a fresh cowpat initially worries us a bit. But we decide there’s nothing to worry about, just be careful where we step and place our things. But, once again, that doesn’t go as planned. Soon enough, I’m sitting right in the middle of it.
Jean is relentless. That pair of pants is not coming into the tent. Tomorrow evening, at the youth hostel in London, we’ll have to wash them properly before we start our city visit.
30 – Tuesday 17 September | Hauxton – London | 97 km
Exactly three weeks ago, a sharp-eyed bike mechanic in New Romney replaced all the spokes in my rear wheel with double-thick ones. An excellent initiative, as it prevented a lot of trouble. At least, until now. Because the moment when my spokes start to wear down seems to have arrived. Three of them are no longer up for it. Jean’s luggage rack also seems to have seen better days. The little fall this morning is probably partly to blame for that.
Tomorrow, our bikes can take a break. But first, we need to find our youth hostel in London. It should be located at 38 Bolton Gardens, in the Earls Court district, which is part of the Royal Borough of Kensington and Chelsea, a little over five kilometres west of Big Ben.
The heavy traffic and numerous traffic lights slow us down more than the Scottish hills
Needless to say, cycling through Greater London is quite different from crossing the Scottish Highlands. The heavy traffic and numerous traffic lights slow us down more than the Scottish hills. It takes us almost two and a half hours to cycle thirty-four kilometres through the urban area. And it must be said, we never take a wrong turn
More than 180 beds are ready for guests here, so we don’t have to worry about a lack of space. Later in the evening, we head down to the Dortmunder Bierkeller, just to have a little fun. Only for a moment though, because it’s way too expensive for us.
31 – Wednesday 18 September | London
Getting my back wheel repaired and exploring the heart of London – those are our intentions for today. To waste as little time as possible, we plan to neatly combine both goals. A quick inquiry has provided us with the addresses of no less than three bike repair shops. The plan is to drop off the bike wheel for repair at one of them before heading into the City, then pick up the repaired wheel this evening. Efficiency is key.
No sooner said than done. The first bike mechanic, dressed in a neat white apron, flatly refuses to even accept the wheel. He deems it too dirty to be considered for repair. The second one, as luck would have it, has his weekly day off today. And the third one, well, he does sell bikes, but as for repairs? That’s not something he deals with.
So, only one option remains – visiting the city with the wheel in hand
There we are. Searching for a fourth bike repair shop or returning to the youth hostel to get rid of that stupid wheel would cost us far too much time. That would ruin our day in London entirely. So, only one option remains – visiting the city with the wheel in hand.
We put the plan into action and hop onto an AEC Routemaster, one of London’s most iconic symbols, better known as the red double-decker bus. We immediately climb the narrow staircase to the upper deck. This draws a few raised eyebrows from the other passengers, who at first only see a bicycle wheel emerging from the stairwell.
Visitors are welcome in Westminster Hall, but security checks are strict due to the ongoing threat of IRA bombings
London – Parliament Square |
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London – Big Ben |
Parliament Square is our first destination. Just last year, on 1 November 1973, Clementine unveiled the larger-than-life statue of her late husband, Winston Churchill, eight years after his passing. But it’s the historic buildings that steal all the attention – Big Ben, the Houses of Parliament, Westminster Hall, Victoria Tower, and Westminster Abbey.
When Westminster Hall was built in 1097, it was the largest hall in Europe. In the late 14th century, an extraordinary feat was added: a hammerbeam roof made of oak was constructed over the enormous space, measuring 21 by 73 meters, without any internal support. Experts call it the greatest achievement of medieval wooden architecture.
The hall has hosted many coronation banquets and numerous trials. It was here that Thomas More was sentenced to death for his principled refusal to endorse King Henry VIII's divorce from Catherine of Aragon.
Visitors are welcome in Westminster Hall, but security checks are strict due to the ongoing threat of IRA bombings. Obediently, we place our belongings on the inspection table. It doesn’t take long for the officer on duty – quite rightly, of course – to determine that my bicycle wheel, dirty as it may be, does not contain explosives.
London – Victoria Tower, Houses of Parliament, Big Ben |
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London |
From across the Thames, the row of historic buildings along the river is, if possible, even more impressive – Victoria Tower, the Houses of Parliament, and Big Ben.
It’s here we encounter, for the first time, a typical London bobby – thankfully, from a safe distance. These police officers owe their nickname to the first name of Prime Minister Robert Peel, who established the Metropolitan Police Force in 1829 and headquartered it in a street called Great Scotland Yard.
London – Westminster Abbey |
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London – Piccadilly Circus |
Westminster Abbey is the place where British monarchs are crowned, a tradition dating back to 1066 when Harold was crowned king here, only to be defeated a few months later at Hastings by William the Conqueror. Elizabeth II has also graced this historic site – first in 1947 to marry Philip Mountbatten, and again in 1953 to be crowned queen.
To be interred in one of Westminster Abbey’s side chapels after death is the ultimate dream of many a British dignitary. However, this honour is granted to very few. Even so, the list of those entombed here is quite impressive – Charles Darwin, Charles Dickens, George Frideric Handel, Isaac Newton, to name but a few.
Three years after his death, King Charles II had the body of Oliver Cromwell exhumed and... posthumously executed
The fate of Oliver Cromwell is particularly remarkable. After dying a natural death in 1658, he was interred in Westminster Abbey by his son. However, three years later, King Charles II had him exhumed and... posthumously executed. Cromwell’s head was displayed on a spike above Westminster Hall for many years as a warning to any dubious claimants to the throne. Yet, in 1899, a statue of him was erected outside Westminster Hall.
When we enter Westminster Abbey, it is quite crowded. So crowded, in fact, that we can’t see much of the side chapels. Fortunately, there’s a simple solution. A subtle movement with the bicycle wheel is enough. Respectfully, the crowd steps back, granting us a prime spot in the front row.
London – Tower of London |
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London – Tower Bridge |
Partly by Tube, partly by the iconic double-decker bus, we continue our exploration of the city – Buckingham Palace, St. James’s Park, Trafalgar Square, and Piccadilly Circus all make their appearance. At Madame Tussauds, we come face-to-face with some illustrious figures we’d otherwise only encounter in the news – Makarios, Winston Churchill, Mahatma Gandhi, Charles de Gaulle, and others. The Tower of London and Tower Bridge provide the grand finale of the day.
In the evening, we discover that part of our food supply has disappeared from the youth hostel’s kitchen – a first-time experience for us.
The tools are there, but the necessary skills are not
The day concludes with replacing the broken spokes in my rear wheel. Along the way, we picked up some supplies to tackle the repair. The job itself is manageable enough. However, getting the wheel perfectly aligned and spinning smoothly in a vertical plane is another matter entirely. The tools are there, but the necessary skills are not.
32 – Thursday 19 September | London – Sturry | 111 km
Persistence pays off. The result may not be flawless, but after another round of tinkering with the spokes after breakfast, we finally manage to produce a wheel that no longer wobbles like a flapping hula hoop around its axis. Hopefully, it will hold up until we get home.
London is not a cyclist’s paradise and likely never will be
It is not without pleasure that we now turn our backs on London. Admittedly, there is plenty to see and do in this city, but a cyclist’s paradise it is not, and likely never will be. Thirty kilometres and two hours later, we feel liberated – free of red lights and vehicles coming at us from every direction. Rolling hills now replace the bustle of the city.
Heading directly east, roughly following the Thames, we take the A2 through Gravesend and Rochester toward Canterbury. It isn’t long before we spot an impressive structure rising high above its surroundings in the distance – Canterbury Cathedral.
The cathedral is surrounded by narrow, historic streets. From beneath the old Christchurch Gate, we take in the grandeur of the massive building for the first time. This is the seat of the Archbishop of Canterbury, effectively the pope of the global Anglican Church. It is also where Thomas Becket was murdered in 1170. Since then, Canterbury has become an important pilgrimage site. Inside, a small altar still marks the spot where four knights struck him down to please their king.
We have no ambition to climb the central crossing tower – our knees would never forgive us
Canterbury – Christchurch Gate |
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Canterbury Cathedral |
Back in 597, St Augustine of Canterbury arrived in this region under orders from the pope to convert the local population to Christianity. He immediately built a simple church here. What we see today, however, is a structure largely dating from the late 12th century. Like York Minster, it features two towers at its western end and a central crossing tower rising 72 meters high. Yet, we have no ambition to climb it – our knees would never forgive us.
Just beyond Canterbury, we pitch our tent on a patch of fallow land between the meadows of Sturry. From the start, our motto has been never the same soup twice. Thanks to the very extensive range of Campbell’s soups, this principle hasn’t been too difficult to maintain.
That we’ve dared to break this principle after more than four weeks should be forgiven. In recent days, you might have caught us with a repeat soup or two. But for our final evening meal on this island, luck is on our side. We’ve managed to snag a can of Mulligatawny, a soup popular among the Tamil people of South India. Mulliga means pepper, and tawny means water – pepper water, essentially. Cough, cough. Very spicy, indeed.
33 – Friday 20 September | Sturry – Diksmuide | 107 km
Eight years ago, in 1966, it was big news. A full-fledged hovercraft service was launched between the English town of Ramsgate and the French city of Calais. It’s a fascinating new technology. Propellers blow air beneath the vessel, where it is held in place by a kind of rubber skirt. Essentially, the vessel floats on a massive cushion of air. This reduces friction both on land and at sea, allowing for higher speeds and, at the same time, less fuel consumption – a real breakthrough, right?
A ride on such a state-of-the-art hovercraft is still on our wish list. So, we make sure to arrive well in advance at the Hoverport in Ramsgate. At £4.75, this crossing costs us 150 francs less per person than the ferry from Ostend to Dover.
At noon, our hovercraft rises noisily above the beach, and less than three-quarters of an hour later, it lands on the beach in Calais. That’s an average speed of 70 km/h, roughly three times faster than the ferry.
It seems inevitable to us that, in the long run, ferries will be priced out of the market by faster and cheaper hovercrafts
Ramsgate – Hoverport |
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Calais – Arrival of a hovercraft |
It seems inevitable that, in the long run, ferries will be priced out of the market by faster and cheaper hovercrafts. Little do we know that on 6 May 1994 a Channel Tunnel for train traffic will be opened between Folkestone and Calais, and that hovercrafts – unlike ferries – will be taken out of service in October 2000.
Getting used to it again |
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(Too) heavily loaded |
We relearn how to drive on the right side of the road and make our way through Dunkirk and Veurne to Diksmuide. A brief visit to the IJzertoren (Yser Tower) is a natural stop. Just beyond Diksmuide, we settle down for our second-to-last overnight stay on a stubble field.
34 – Saturday 21 September | Diksmuide – Willebroek | 132 km
For a moment, we consider cycling straight home in one go – more than two hundred kilometres in a single day. But we quickly discard that idea. The best option remains to calmly pedal home without any mishaps. We head towards Dendermonde via Tielt and Ghent.
The fact that Jean's pedal comes loose again barely worries us. In the blink of an eye, the pedal is back in place. Experience has taught us.
In Willebroek, we pitch our tent one last time on a piece of unused land.
35 – Sunday 22 September | Willebroek – Overpelt | 97 km
Swiftly, we continue eastwards – Mechelen, Heist-op-den-Berg, Westerlo, Leopoldsburg. The weather is splendid, the mood is jubilant, and technical issues are nowhere to be found. We glide over the flat roads as if on a cloud. No one will hold it against us that we occasionally toast to our successful journey in a local inn. For more than a month, we've acted as true ascetics.
That our bikes, along with their luggage and riders, have made it the entire 3,362 km is nothing short of a small miracle
Exactly five weeks after our departure, we arrive in Overpelt around 6 pm – completely unannounced to our families, but in perfect health and with great spirits. That our bikes, along with their luggage and riders, have made it the entire 3,362 km is nothing short of a small miracle.
Jaak Palmans
© 2024 | Version 2024-12-10 15:00
Special thanks to cycling companion Jean Hendrikx.
The footage uses frames from a digitised version of the original Super 8 film.