The place you never return from

France | La Réunion | Anno 2023

 

Sunday 22 October | Le Souffleur – Saint-Louis – Cilaos – Pointe au Sel

Monday 23 October | Saint-Leu – Le Gouffre – Entre-Deux – Jardin d’Eden

 

 

Sunday 22 October | Le Souffleur – Saint-Louis – Cilaos – Pointe au Sel

A goat trail. That was the only way to get there. Otherwise, the cirque of Cilaos was completely cut off from the outside world. Ideal, then, for the marons, the escaped enslaved people, to hide there. They called the place tsy ilaozana, the place you never return from – a name that eventually evolved into Cilaos. The city’s tourist office, in turn, gave that name a more cheerful twist: they now call Cilaos the place you keep returning to. That's how much fun it is, they say, in that cirque. We’re curious to find out.

It certainly won’t be the sun’s fault if we don’t enjoy it. From early morning, it’s been out in full force. It’s sunny and warm, not a cloud in the radiant blue sky, and the sea glows a deep blue in this clear weather. Our driver Max ignores the fast Route des Tamarins for now, opting instead for the old coastal road that hugs the water. A surprising number of sporty cyclists are taking advantage of the beautiful Sunday morning to work on their fitness.

This phenomenon is sometimes called a sea geyser, although it has nothing to do with volcanism or hot springs

Saint-Leu – Le Souffleur

Coral reefs are not found here; the sea can pound the coast unimpeded, waves crashing wildly in white foam against the rocks. But near Le Souffleur, there’s more going on than just the roar of the surf. Regularly, a fountain of water shoots meters high into the air. This phenomenon is sometimes called a sea geyser, although it has nothing to do with volcanism or hot springs.

From where we’re standing, we can’t see it, but somewhere beneath us there must be a cave in this rocky coastline. In the ceiling of that cave, a narrow shaft must have formed – a blowhole that leads to the surface. If the waves are strong enough, seawater fills the cave completely, forcing the mixture of air and water droplets upward through the blowhole. This is how, right before our eyes, a beautiful fountain of water appears again and again, with the sun painting a cheerful rainbow in it.

 

Fertile coastal strip

In Saint-Louis, we leave the ring road behind us. It’s no longer a goat track that leads from the coast to the Cilaos caldera, it’s the famous N5, the Route de Cilaos. Back in the day, it took quite a bit of effort before this road was built, travel guide Marie-Annick explains, because there were many doubts about whether the project was feasible.

Then, in 1927, it finally happened. From both directions, work began to build an asphalt road through the valley of the Bras de Cilaos. That went more smoothly than expected, as the volcanic rock was rather brittle. In hindsight, that turned out to be a disadvantage as well, since the rock easily comes loose. To this day, a patrol checks the entire road once a week to clear away any fallen debris.

A goat trail. That was the only way to get there. Otherwise, the cirque of Cilaos was completely cut off from the outside world

 

The work was nearly complete when the engineers encountered a tricky problem. The two teams were not at the same elevation. The section of road from Cilaos was more than ten meters higher than the one from Saint-Louis. It seemed like an insurmountable height difference – until engineer Telmard pulled a solution out of his sleeve. A spiral bridge was constructed, the Pont de la Boucle, where the road makes a 270° turn and crosses its own path. A bit like the curl in a pig’s tail.

To this day, a patrol checks the entire road once a week to clear away any fallen debris

 

In 1932, the road was opened to traffic. Those prone to motion sickness would do well to skip it. The 35-kilometer-long road has more than four hundred bends – 418 to be exact, which comes down to about one curve every eighty meters. But driver Max is undeterred. He knows the area like the back of his hand.

Soon, the road begins winding its way through the narrow, deep gorge carved by the Bras de Cilaos into the volcanic rock. No matter how steep the cliffs are, lush vegetation has managed to take hold everywhere – even on the valley floor, where sunlight barely penetrates. Turn after turn after turn, the landscape around us changes. One moment, we catch a glimpse through the valley; the next, a rock wall looms directly in front of us.

Those prone to motion sickness would do well to skip it. The 35-kilometer-long road has more than four hundred bends

Îlet Mandataine

Îlet Mandataine is the first place where we can pause and take in the surroundings. In the distance, the jagged profile of the Piton des Neiges, the dormant volcano, rises against the blue sky. Below, a trickle of water flows through the mostly dry riverbed. It's hard to believe that this tiny stream carved out the ravine. Perhaps we should return during the rainy season to truly appreciate the power of water.

In the distance, the jagged profile of the Piton des Neiges, the dormant volcano, rises against the blue sky

 

It’s a very peaceful place – that is, if it weren’t for the young speed devils who, on this lovely Sunday morning, are taking full advantage of the Route de Cilaos’s many curves with their cars or motorcycles.

The Tunnel du Pavillon is the first of three tunnels we’ll encounter. It’s a very primitive one, about fifty meters long and only a single lane wide. Its uneven walls look crumbly, as if a rock could come loose at any moment.

 

Col du Taïbit (central on the horizon)

Incidentally, the nearby village of Le Pavillon was once a regular stop on the way to Cilaos. That’s because, back in 1815, three hot springs were discovered in the cirque of Cilaos. They quickly became popular, sparking the beginnings of health tourism to the region. Naturally, this was an expensive endeavour, affordable only to the wealthy elite. But even then, transportation remained a major issue. Walking 35 kilometres over that goat track simply was out of the question.

Wealthy citizens could be carried up in a sedan chair. The fee was 1.50 French francs per kilogram

Historic sedan chair

Sedan chair on the way to the baths

A unique system was therefore put in place. Wealthy citizens could be carried up in a sedan chair. Typically, each passenger required twelve porters who took turns carrying. The fee was 1.50 French francs per kilogram. So, a passenger weighing 80 kg had to pay 120 francs – that’s 10 francs per porter, the equivalent of about 15 euro cents. For the entire journey, that is. In Le Pavillon, they would rest and spend the night.

Passengers would often take the opportunity to have a p’tit coup de sec – a sip of rum. Just to give themselves a bit of courage

This system remained in use until 1965, but after 1932 it was only used for the route from Cilaos to the thermal baths. In 2006, the last porter, François Sery, passed away at the venerable age of 102. He had met his wife when he carried her up to Cilaos in his sedan chair. Apparently, it wasn’t always hardship and misery for the porters.

Along the way, they would stop occasionally to rest. Passengers would often take the opportunity to have a p’tit coup de sec – a sip of rum. Just to give themselves a bit of courage, as the journey was that perilous.

 

 

Because the goat path did not always run along the valley floor. Quite often, it was a razor-thin ribbon along a steep slope. And it did happen now and then that someone came from the opposite direction. From the early 18th century onward, the caldera was no longer inhabited solely by marons – runaway enslaved black people – but also by what were then called the petits blancs des hauts. These were poor people of non-African descent who had no choice but to start a new life in the caldera. After all, there was no longer any room for these small farmers on the coastal strip, as the enormous sugar cane plantations had gradually absorbed all the fertile plots.

These white farmers eventually did quite well in the caldera. They managed to meet their own needs by producing lentils, corn, peas, beans, citrus fruits, wine, and more. They also raised livestock. The surplus they sold in Saint-Louis. To do this, they loaded their goods onto a mule and made the trek to the coast via the goat path. It’s hardly surprising that wealthy citizens sometimes broke out in a cold sweat when, seated in their sedan chair, they saw such a heavily laden beast of burden approaching them on the narrow goat path

Jagged peaks with irregularly shaped, densely forested slopes seem to lie haphazardly across each other

 

We now quickly climb out of the narrow gorge and gain a better view of this remarkable landscape. There is no discernible structure in this mountain terrain. Jagged peaks with irregularly shaped, densely forested slopes seem to lie haphazardly across each other. There are hardly any valleys to speak of. Yet the water down below must somehow find its way. It’s almost unimaginable how the first maroons found their path through this volcanic wilderness.

The village Peter Both owes its striking name to a very unusual rock formation – a massive, round pinnacle perched on a ridge that immediately draws our attention

Peter Both

A village named Peter Both is not something you would immediately expect to find here. It owes its striking name to a very unusual rock formation – a massive, round pinnacle perched on a ridge that immediately draws our attention. Reportedly, the rock closely resembles the most prominent mountain peak on the island of Mauritius, also named Peter Both, in memory of the first governor of the Dutch East Indies. This rock was named after him as well, and so was the village at its base.

 

Peter Both

There is even a Peter Both tunnel. Originally, it didn’t exist, but after a landslide in 1960, the road had to be rerouted. Once again, it’s a fairly rudimentary tunnel, no frills, 170 meters long and just one lane wide. Before entering, it’s best to check for oncoming traffic.

Then finally, the Tunnel de Gueule Rouge appears – the third and last of the narrow tunnels. It’s not the tunnel itself that’s so special, but the view that greets you as you emerge from it. You look down on sun-drenched Cilaos nestled in its awe-inspiring caldera. The town, encircled by the massive volcanic walls, looks like the perfect holiday destination.

But driver Max skips the turnoff to Cilaos. We continue our journey via Bras Sec, once a campsite of the marons, and climb toward the Roche Merveilleuse. It’s a very special rock, for women who are unable to conceive need only rub their belly against it to change their fortunes.

The sunny town lies peacefully below us – a white anomaly amid the lush green vegetation and the bluish-grey volcanic walls

Cilaos

Still, it’s not necessarily that mystical opportunity that draws us in. What captivates us is the breathtaking panorama. From an altitude of 1,435 meters, we now overlook Cilaos. The sunny town, home to more than five thousand inhabitants, lies peacefully below us – a white anomaly amid the lush green vegetation and the bluish-grey volcanic walls. The football stadium and a small lake are the most striking landmarks. The town’s layout has naturally adopted the nearly perfect circular shape of the caldera.

A mountain shaped like a priest’s hat has fittingly been named Bonnet de Prêtre

Bonnet de Prêtre

Îlet à Cordes

Behind us towers the Piton des Neiges, the three-thousand-meter-high dormant volcano that single-handedly created this landscape. To the left, where the wall of the caldera is slightly lower, tour guide Marie-Annick points out the Col du Taïbit. That mountain ridge separates the cirque of Cilaos from that of Mafate. It’s also the crossing point where the ultra-runners of the Diagonale des Fous made their passage between the two calderas yesterday. From this vantage point, their achievement seems nothing short of hallucinatory. But there’s room for humour as well – a mountain shaped like a priest’s hat has fittingly been named Bonnet de Prêtre.

To outwit the slave hunters, they climbed up using ropes made of lianas, leaving no trace behind

The most evocative place here is without a doubt the famous Îlet à Cordes, a high plateau directly across from us. Several marons hid there in the 18th century. To outwit the slave hunters, they climbed up using ropes made of lianas, leaving no trace behind. But the notorious slave hunter François Mussard was not so easily deceived. He nearly succeeded in cleansing all three of La Réunion’s cirques of marons. In October 1751, he made short work of the two camps he encountered on Îlet à Cordes.

Still, no camp site had ever been definitively identified by archaeologists as a maron refuge – until a mountain guide stumbled upon such a site by accident in 1995. This Vallée secrète is believed to be near the source of the Cap Bouteille spring, over two thousand meters high on the steep slope between the cirques of Cilaos and Mafate. The only way to reach it was by abseiling down the cliffs. Once at the bottom, you were completely invisible.

Two shelters were found there, surrounded by low stone walls and partially covered by an overhanging rock. Each had a fireplace, around which hundreds of animal bones were scattered – mainly petrels, it seemed. That’s remarkable, as these birds only visit the valley early in the year. Perhaps the shelters weren’t used year-round, which would make sense since farming or livestock-raising would have been impossible in such a narrow ravine.

Scientific analysis in 2011 determined that the clay pipe was last smoked sometime between 1809 and 1835 – well before slavery was abolished in 1848

An important find was a fragment of a clay pipe. Scientific analysis in 2011 determined that the pipe was last smoked sometime between 1809 and 1835 – well before slavery was abolished in 1848.

 

Cilaos

As we descend toward Cilaos by bus, Marie-Annick draws our attention to a few other things that contribute to the town’s reputation today. For instance, there are the lentils, harvested in September and October – the best and most expensive on the island. The spa still attracts visitors as well.

 

This cirque proudly hosts the very last grape harvest of the French wine season every year – in March, no less

And then there are the vineyards. This cirque proudly hosts the very last grape harvest of the French wine season every year – in March, no less. Vines were first planted here in 1860, though at the time people were only interested in the grapes themselves. The vitis labrusca, a grape variety from North America, thrived in this dry, temperate climate. Still, it wasn’t until 1915 that anyone explored the idea of producing wine – ironically at the initiative of a priest, one Father Teigny. Since 2004, the wine may bear the label Vin de Pays.

 

Cilaos

The streets of Cilaos exude a cheerful holiday atmosphere. It’s one of the busiest days of the year – this warm Sunday during school vacation. The sun is still shining brightly, and there isn’t the slightest breeze. Even here, at 1,192 meters above sea level, the thermometer reads a pleasant 32.5 °C (90,5 °F).

 

Notre Dame des Neiges

People are strolling through the mostly car-free town, browsing the little market. Sunday mass has just ended at the Notre Dame des Neiges church. As the faithful stream out, we slip inside for a quick visit. We’re surprised to see a statue of Saint Joan of Arc. We hadn’t realised that France’s national heroine was canonised in 1920.

 

Cilaos

One thing we absolutely must not miss – as Marie-Annick has strongly advised – is the Maison de la Broderie. It's a cross between a shop and a museum, where you can admire stunning examples of jours sur toile, a highly refined embroidery technique that is practiced here – both literally and figuratively – at a very high level.

You can admire stunning examples of jours sur toile, a highly refined embroidery technique that is practiced here at a very high level

The roots of this tradition trace back to Angèle Mac-Auliffe. She was just 23 years old when she arrived in Cilaos in 1900, after her father had been officially appointed as the doctor of the thermal baths. Angèle already had considerable embroidery experience, and before long she had gathered a group of young girls around her with whom she shared her skills. Over time, she refined traditional techniques by simplifying overly busy patterns and aiming for greater elegance. Her innovations were so influential that today people refer to Jours de Cilaos, or Jours anciens.

Tragically, disaster struck in 1908. Measles reached La Réunion from Madagascar, and Angèle was among its many victims. After her death, nuns continued her work, and eventually local artisans preserved and further refined the tradition.

 

Literally, jours sur toile means holes in the fabric – a form of openwork embroidery

Jours de Cilaos

What makes these jours sur toile so special is explained to us by an enthusiastic lady. The term literally means holes in the fabric – a form of openwork embroidery. Typically, white cotton is used. Threads are carefully pulled or cut from the fabric, then very meticulously knotted to create openings. For this, the warp and weft of the fabric must be as evenly spaced as possible, so the resulting openings form regular shapes.

What’s typical of the Jours de Cilaos is that a large square opening is first created in the textile. The remaining threads in the centre are then artistically knotted to form a white base structure. Coloured threads are then used to add a design – often an exotic flower, or sometimes a geometric pattern. The result: exceptionally beautiful pieces of art.

 

Wall painting (Vincent Bac)

Now we board the bus again, climbing out of the town and back into the mountains. Strange, as we thought it was lunchtime. But Max and Marie-Annick have a surprise in store. The place where they drop us off is the Plateau des Chênes, a lovely picnic spot higher up in the forest, not far from the Roche Merveilleuse. Two tables, neatly set with tablecloths, are already waiting for us.

 

Plateau des Chênes – Picnic

While two pots simmer over a crackling wood fire, we enjoy a punch as an aperitif, and sausage and vegetables as a cold starter. Then comes the main course – rice with beans, sausage, and chicken, accompanied by a glass of wine – and pineapple for dessert. And of course, the inevitable rum arrangé. It turns out to be one of the best meals of our stay on La Réunion, thanks to the pleasant atmosphere, the peaceful forest surroundings, and the refreshing coolness in the shade of the trees.

This wild volcanic landscape continues to impress, like a constantly shifting spectacle passing before the window, like a kaleidoscope that’s always being shaken

 

Now comes the inevitable – the ride back down the 418 bends of the Route de Cilaos to the coast. It takes eighty minutes to cover the 35 kilometres. But the journey is one to savour. The sun is now higher in the sky, casting fewer shadows over the valley. Even the deepest parts of the ravines now reveal some of their secrets. This wild volcanic landscape continues to impress, like a constantly shifting spectacle passing before the window, like a kaleidoscope that’s always being shaken.

Only here, on the leeward west coast of La Réunion, is the climate dry enough to allow sea-water to evaporate, leaving only salt behind

Saint-Leu – Pointe au Sel

For many centuries, salt was extracted near Saint-Leu. Only here, on the leeward west coast of La Réunion, is the climate dry enough to allow seawater to evaporate, leaving only salt behind. This industry reached its peak during the Second World War but collapsed rapidly in the 1960s when the operation proved no longer profitable. More about this can be learned at the Musée du Sel. But not today, as for unclear reasons the small museum is closed.

 

Saint-Leu – Coastal strip

We stroll for a bit among the idle salt pans and make our way down to the coast, where the foaming surf crashes violently against the heavy basalt blocks. It’s still sunny, with barely a cloud in the sky. Swimming is strictly forbidden in this dangerous environment, but that doesn’t seem to deter some bathers.

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Monday 23 October | Saint-Leu – Le Gouffre – Entre-Deux – Jardin d’Eden

There are no corals here, as tour guide Marie-Annick knows. So you don't need shoes to wade through the water. By “here" she means Saint-Leu, a well-known surf spot on the southern coast of La Réunion. As we drive past the beach with its beautiful palm trees, we see swimmers and surfers already in action in the distance. It's not even nine o'clock, yet the thermometer has already hit thirty degrees. Once again, the morning holds the promise of a beautiful day. The cloudless blue sky is further proof of that.

 

L’Étang-Salé – Rocky coast

Farther along, the coastline becomes much rougher, with black basalt rocks where the sea waves crash and expend their energy. Like at Le Gouffre de l’Étang-Salé, a narrow, natural corridor that cuts inland through the rocks, nearly one hundred meters deep. What we see down there is nothing but white foam churning, raging, roaring, and pounding. With every heavy wave, the foam crests explode above the rocks in white fountains. It's a striking illustration of nature’s violence – on a small scale, but still impressive. And it's dangerous too, as the information signs warn us, because fatal accidents do happen.

With every heavy wave, the foam crests explode above the rocks in white fountains

Le Gouffre de L'Étang-Salé

But what the tourist brochures with their enticing photos carefully keep out of view are the many white crosses among the basalt boulders and agave plants. Because it is a painful reality that this is a favoured spot for those who want to prematurely end their lives. Born October 13, 1883, disappeared into the sea August 26, 1917, we read on one of the memorial stones. Notably, there is a flower at every recent cross.

 

Le Gouffre de L'Étang-Salé – Drowned in the surf

It’s still about a half-hour drive to Entre-Deux, our destination for today. Which prompts Marie-Annick to share some reflections on the political and social situation of La Réunion. Just like the other four French overseas departments – Mayotte in the Indian Ocean, and Guadeloupe, Martinique, and Guiana in the Caribbean – La Réunion is generally treated as a stepchild by the motherland. Although it must be acknowledged that the situation has somewhat improved recently. Lately, more money has indeed been flowing to the island, especially for agriculture and infrastructure. But that mostly comes from the European Union, not from France.

 

Disappeared into the sea

Currently, Huguette Bello, a former member of the Communist Party until 2012, is the president of the regional council of La Réunion. That council has authority over education, the economy, and transportation. When it rains in Paris, it usually drizzles in La Réunion too. For example, the Yellow Vests movement was also active here. But it didn’t achieve much.

Rapid population growth means there is less and less land available, and prices keep rising

L'Étang-Salé – Coastal strip

Because, as Marie-Annick sighs, life on La Réunion is quite expensive for the average person. Rapid population growth means there is less and less land available, and prices keep rising. On the west coast, for instance, you could easily pay € 2,000,000 for a 30 m² studio with a sea view. Visiting family in mainland France is almost unaffordable. A round-trip flight costs around € 1,200 per person. For a typical family with four children, that becomes a heavy burden.

 

Entre-Deux has managed to preserve its Creole authenticity quite well

Entre-Deux – Eglise Saint-Vincent de Paul

Meanwhile, we’ve left the ring road behind in Saint-Louis and are climbing into the interior. If you're looking for couleur locale, then Entre-Deux is a fitting destination. This town has managed to preserve its Creole authenticity quite well, even though it has more than seven thousand inhabitants. This year (2023), it was even one of the fourteen nominees for the title of most beautiful village in France.

Entre-Deux lies on a plateau, nearly four hundred meters high, between two deep ravines – hence its name

Entre-Deux

Nowadays, reaching the town is a breeze. You simply drive over the 150-meter-high bridge spanning the Bras de la Plaine. But it hasn’t always been that easy. Entre-Deux lies on a plateau, nearly four hundred meters high, between two deep ravines – hence its name. In the past, you had to cross one of the two rivers and then climb up to the plateau.

 

Entre-Deux

What jours sur toile are for Cilaos, savates choca are for Entre-Deux. These colourful slippers are made from the fibres of the choca, a plant from the agave family. Even an experienced weaver needs three days to finish a single pair. Carefully scraping the leaves, extracting and slightly tanning the fibres, forming strands with coloured threads – this all has to be done before the actual weaving and sewing can begin.

What jours sur toile are for Cilaos, savates choca are for Entre-Deux

Choca plant

Savates choca

Despite this long-standing tradition, the choca is not an endemic plant. It is an invasive species that began to spread across the island only in the early 18th century and is now impossible to eradicate – assuming anyone would even want to. Although the plant flowers only once before it dies, it produces hundreds of bulbils when it does, each capable of growing into a fully-fledged new plant.

 

 

Incidentally, the famous slippers are not the only products made from choca. It’s also used to make ropes, bags, hats, earrings... And the heart of the choca plant has long found its way into Creole cuisine, where it features in sauces and curries, in samoussas and beignets.

Strolling through the peaceful town, we find ourselves inevitably impressed by the many exotic flowers that the residents of Entre-Deux use to adorn their gardens

Lychees

Strolling through the peaceful town, we find ourselves even more impressed by the many exo­tic flowers that the Entre-Deusiens use to adorn their gardens than by their colourful Creole houses. Sometimes these are plants we recognise, such as vibrant bougainvilleas, imposing kapok trees, or traveller’s palms with their wide fans. Elsewhere we spot a lychee tree with its green, unripe fruit. But more often, these plants are complete strangers to us.

Its oval-shaped stone fruits hang like a colourful garland around its trunk

Traveller's tree

Christmas palm (palmier Paul et Virginie)

Take, for example, the palmier Paul et Virginie, an exotic species originating from the Philippines. Its oval-shaped stone fruits hang like a colourful garland around its trunk. Locally, it’s also sometimes called the Christmas palm, because the fruits ripen around Christmas and take on a scarlet-red colour.

They hang from the bare branches like a fountain of petrified water droplets – or should we say blood drops, given their colour

Coralplant

Aristolochia littoralis

With its oddly shaped, white-and-brown mottled calyx, the Aristolochia littoralis somewhat reminds us of an orchid. But it’s not related at all – in fact, the scent it emits is rather unpleasant. Yet it is precisely that odour that effectively attracts insects.

 

Golden dewdrop

Then there’s the golden dewdrop, whose dense clusters of hundreds of orange berries, slightly larger than marbles, draw the eye. It’s technically a shrub, but here it has grown to the size of a tree.

 

Golden trumpet (allamanda)

The beautiful yellow flowers of the golden trumpet are very tempting, but every part of this climbing plant is poisonous. Then there’s the coral plant, whose bright red, tube-shaped flowers stand out. They hang from the bare branches like a fountain of petrified water droplets – or should we say blood drops, given their colour. And so it goes on. It’s as if we’re strolling through a botanical garden. A nice little prelude to what’s coming next.

 

 

In the distance, a white-tailed tropicbird darts swiftly through the sky. Its long, elegant tail feathers steal the show. It spends most of its life over the open ocean. The fact that we see it this far inland probably means its breeding season has begun. It doesn’t have a fixed breeding cycle. It starts a family whenever it feels the time is right. Climate plays a role in that, as does the availability of a suitable nesting site.

Philippe Kaufmant viewed plants in their relationship to humans – are they sacred, harmful, medicinal, aphrodisiac, fragrant, edible, flavour-enhancing?

Jardin d’Eden – Lotus pond

Jardin d’Eden is the promising name of our post-lunch destination. It’s about an hour’s drive away, since this botanical garden is located on the island’s northwest coast. In the meantime, clouds have settled over the coastal strip, though the sky above the sea remains blue. Still, the temperature holds steady at a very pleasant 31°C (88°F).

Is it an obsession gone wild? Maybe. What’s certain is that Philippe Kaufmant transformed a sandy, rocky plain – where once only some bamboo and a few coconut palms grew – into a true Garden of Eden. More than 300 plant species now thrive here, spread over an area of 2.5 hectares (6.18 acres).

 

Red ginger

But this is more than just a showcase of endemic and exotic flora. Kaufmant saw La Réunion’s plant diversity primarily as the botanical heritage of the many different peoples who have settled on this island. He viewed plants in their relationship to humans – are they sacred, harmful, medicinal, aphrodisiac, fragrant, edible, flavour-enhancing? Can you use them to weave baskets, build canoes, make paper, or plant a hedge around your home? That’s why he preferred not to call his life’s work a botanical garden, but an ethnobotanical one.

The essential oil extracted from ylang-ylang is a key ingredient in Chanel No. 5

Ylang-ylang

That focus on the relationship with humans is immediately evident in the ylang-ylang that Marie-Annick points out. The essential oil extracted from this plant is a key ingredient in Chanel No. 5. The sacred lotus, in turn, held significance for the Hindus who came to work on the sugarcane plantations. The lotus pond is full of them. And the tangy, crunchy fruits of the bilimbi are said to be delicious with game and fish.

 

Bonnet de Prêtre

The bonnet de prêtre, on the other hand – so named because its angular fruits resemble a bishop’s hat – is less innocent than it appears. If you grind its seeds into powder and sprinkle that on water, the fish are yours for the taking, as they are stunned by a toxic substance.

In Creole, the flower is called atoumo, a contraction of à-tous-maux (“for all ailments”). This medicinal plant has a wide range of uses against all kinds of ailments

Tears of the virgin (atoumo, à-tous-maux)

The tears of the virgin – that’s what Marie-Annick calls the flowering structure of a particular ginger variety. The flowers are stunning, with pearly white petals and a calyx patterned with red stripes on a yellow background. In Creole, the flower is called atoumo, a contraction of à-tous-maux (“for all ailments”). There is no doubt about it – this medicinal plant has a wide range of uses against all kinds of ailments.

 

Bilimbi

Royal palm

Palm trees, of course, are also present. Take the royal palm, with its slender trunk that can grow up to thirty meters tall. A decoction of its roots is said to be useful in treating kidney problems and diabetes.

The bismarckia, naturally found only in Madagascar, immediately stands out with its blue-grey colour, symmetrical form, and imposing appearance

Bismarckia

Pachypodium

The bismarckia, naturally found only in Madagascar, immediately stands out with its blue-grey colour, symmetrical form, and imposing appearance. It’s no surprise they named it after the Iron Chancellor.

 

Shrub pistachio

Although it resembles a palm and is sometimes called the Madagascar palm, the pachypodium is not a palm at all. In fact, it’s a succulent, closely related to cacti. Like rod-shaped cacti, it performs photosynthesis through its silvery-grey trunk. That trunk has hardly any branches but does bear menacing spines.

No plant has played a greater role in the economy of La Réunion than the vacoa

Frangipani trees

Vacoa (common screwpine)

No plant has played a greater role in the economy of La Réunion than the vacoa. Sometimes it’s called the common screwpine, though it is neither a palm nor a tree. It’s an odd-looking plant, with stilt roots that function like aerial roots. For centuries, the leaves of the vacoa were used as roofing material, or to weave baskets, trunks, and backpacks. But they were especially indispensable for packaging and transporting goods like coffee, making them a vital part of the local economy.

 

Red frangipani

Fruit of vacoa

There is no shortage of plants flaunting their seductive flowers – red ginger, the ever-popular heliconia with its decorative bracts, and the intriguing torch ginger with its delicate, waxy petals.

 

Torch ginger

Still, it is the jade vine that amazes us the most. Its flowers are turquoise – a fairly unique phenomenon in the plant world.

The flowers of the jade vine are turquoise – a fairly unique phenomenon in the plant world

Panther chameleon

Jade vine

And what about the animals in this Garden of Eden? Naturally, they are here too. But don’t expect them to bring much liveliness. You’ll mostly find slow, sometimes nearly motionless creatures. Take the panther chameleon, for example. They call it l’endormi here – the sleepy one – because it often appears to be dozing while clinging motionless to a plant. The beautiful blue-green specimen we see must be a male, as females have a rather plain ochre-yellow colouration. In about a month, the breeding season will begin. At that time, females turn completely black and become highly aggressive. After mating, they bury their eggs. If those eggs aren’t devoured by red ants, about twenty babies will hatch.

It mates five to six times a year, with each mating lasting an average of six to eight hours. This results in around 200 eggs – a real nightmare for farmers and households

Giant African land snail

Another sluggish creature is the giant African land snail. With a shell the size of a child’s fist, it inches slowly across a leaf. As slow as its movement may be, it reproduces rapidly. Being hermaphroditic, it carries both sperm and egg cells. It mates five to six times a year, with each mating lasting an average of six to eight hours. Sperm is exchanged in both directions. This results in around 200 eggs, of which about 90 % reach adulthood. For farmers and households, its presence is a nightmare – not only because it destroys crops, but also because it spreads pathogens harmful to both plants and humans.

 

Heliconia, gold dust day gecko

Sluggishness is not something you could accuse the gold dust day gecko of. True, it’s sitting motionless on a leaf in the shade, but it's still a lizard. If it senses danger, it will vanish in a flash. Its name comes from the fact that it is active during the day – not at night like most of its relatives – and from the dusting of golden specks on its head and the tip of its tail. Unfortunately, you can only really see this in sunlight.

 

Heliconia

Our exploration ends at the papyrus. A more striking example of the connection between plant and human is hard to find. For the ancient Egyptians, papyrus was not only the material for written documents – we owe the word paper to it – but also a symbol of rebirth. Submerge its stalk with the crown underwater, and it will grow new roots and then new stalks. It’s no wonder they depicted papyrus reeds on their temples and carried them in their processions.

A more striking example of the connection between plant and human than the papyrus is hard to find

Papyrus

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Jaak Palmans
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