Tripolitania

Libya – Coastal Area | Anno 2005

 

Sabratha

Lepcis Magna

Sumptuous villas on the coast

 

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Sabratha

 

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On the northwest coast of present-day Libya, it was not the Greeks but the Phoenicians who established colonies there from the 7th century BCE onwards – Oea, Lepcis, and Sabratha. These three cities quickly grew into important trading centres. They were given the name Tripolitania, the area of the three cities, and their inhabitants were called Punics

 

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The 24 m high Mausoleum of Bes from the 2nd century BCE in Sabratha is the only monument that still reminds us of Punic culture

 

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With the Romans came the temples, theatres and bathhouses to Sabratha

 

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One of those bathhouses was excellently situated and overlooked the sea

 

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The bathhouse boasted beautiful floor mosaics

 

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Although the sea level before the earthquake of 365 was lower than it is now, the view must have been magnificent even then, with the Temple of Isis in the distance

 

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Sabratha saw Isis as the patron goddess of sailors. It is therefore logical that this temple from the 1st century BCE was located on a platform above the surf and welcomed approaching sailors from afar

 

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Sabratha's prosperity is abundantly demonstrated by the theatre for five thousand spectators, built in 190. With a diameter of 95 meters, it was once the largest theatre in North Africa

 

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The stunning three-story back wall was truly unique – twenty meters high, with 108 columns with finely carved capitals. No Roman theatre could match it

 

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Also striking are the marble bas-reliefs on the wall at the front of the stage. These depict the Three Graces and the Judgment of Paris, a well-known theme from Greek mythology

 

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Or the nine muses, each with their own musical instrument

 

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An attentive listener in the school of orators

 

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At the centre is a personification of Sabratha and Rome. Their right hands are intertwined, symbolising the harmony between the city and the empire

 

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After nearly two centuries, the infamous earthquake of 365 put an end to all activity

 

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Lepcis Magna

 

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Of the three cities of Tripolitania, Lepcis Magna was undoubtedly the most important. Founded in the 7th century BCE by Phoenician navigators, it grew into one of the jewels of the Roman Empire. At its peak, Lepcis Magna, with its 100,000 inhabitants, was one of the largest cities in the empire

 

 

 

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An imposing triumphal arch commemorates the visit of Emperor Septimius Severus to his hometown in 203 CE.

 

 

 

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In fact, it is not a triumphal arch, but a tetrapylon, a building 40 by 40 meters and 20 meters high, with a gate on each of its four sides. The triangular, pointed structural elements are reminiscent of the Punic mausoleum of Bes in Sabratha

 

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The triumphal arch was covered on the outside with carved marble

 

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Inside the dome, eagles are depicted on the four corners, a symbol of the Roman Empire

 

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The enormous baths of Emperor Hadrian (127 CE) were the largest in Africa, after those of Carthage. All the rooms were symmetrically built in duplicate, so that men and women could proceed completely separately. Hadrian had issued a law prohibiting mixed bathing

 

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Such public baths were the centre of social life in Lepcis Magna. People came here not only to refresh themselves, but also for social contact. For the latest news and the juiciest gossip, you had to go to the bathhouse

 

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The laconicum, the dry sweat room, was very similar to a modern-day sauna

 

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The hot air was transported upwards through tubuli or hollow bricks, which also heated the wall

 

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The tiled floor of the laconicum rested on brick pillars, allowing the ovens to blow hot air under the floor. Such a construction was called a hypocaust

 

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Even the latrines were primarily a social affair, with 48 marble seats neatly arranged side by side. The water from the adjacent bathrooms was used for flushing

 

 

 

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The enormous forum, 100 m long and 60 m wide, was surrounded by a high stone wall

 

 

 

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An imposing colonnade surrounded the square. Louis XIV had more than 600 of these marble columns shipped to France as war booty, partly to be used in Versailles

 

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Medallions depicting the head of Medusa adorn the arcades. Her beautiful hair had been turned into a nest of writhing venomous snakes by the goddess Athena as punishment. Anyone who looked into Medusa's eyes was petrified on the spot

 

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It wasn't unusual to place such a head as an ornament on a building. The paralysing effect of Medusa's gaze was enough to ward off evil forces

 

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What makes these heads special, however, are the heart-shaped pupils of the eyes

 

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The basilica, a massive building measuring 95 by 35 meters, served as a market hall, stock exchange, and courtroom. From the 4th century onward, Christians adopted the basilica's architectural plan to build their churches

 

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Bacchus amidst the grapevines adorns the columns in the northern apse of the basilica

 

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Dolphins adorn the massive legs of marble counters at the fish market. One of the dolphins even appears to be catching a baby octopus

 

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On the remains of the harbour's jetties you can still see the holes in which cranes could be anchored

 

 

 

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A thematic guide shows interested visitors the way to the brothels

 

 

 

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A popular symbol was the fascinum, usually in the form of a phallus on legs ejaculating into the evil eye. The virile power of the erect phallus provided protection against the evil forces of the evil eye. The fascinum thus exerted a kind of spell. We owe it to words like fascinate and fascination.

 

 

 

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A slightly sloping street leads to the theatre

 

 

 

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The theatre was built in the year 1 or 2. The stands could seat five thousand spectators. The view must have been overwhelming for the spectators

 

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The enormous stage is 87.60 m wide. Above it rises a three-story stage set with alternating galleries and balconies and a facade of Corinthian columns

 

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VIPs were seated at the front in a special area, where a waist-high wall separated them from the plebs. There were two entrances for the public downstairs, and five upstairs

 

 

 

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The amphitheatre, an oval structure measuring 57 by 47 meters, was completed in 56 CE. It could seat sixteen thousand spectators. The city's elite sat in the front rows, preferably on the southeast side, where a gentle sea breeze usually provided some relief

 

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Wild animals, gladiators and convicted criminals could enter the scene through two entrances

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Sumptuous villas on the coast

 

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Such was the prestige of Lepcis Magna that aristocrats began building sumptuous villas along the coast. Exquisite floor mosaics were the ultimate prestige object, with which the very wealthy tried to outdo each other, such as these mosaics from Villa Nilus, the villa with the Nile Mosaic

 

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Villa Orpheus takes its name from the famous mosaic depicting Orpheus. Greek mythology tells us that he could play the lyre so skilfully that he could make animals and trees dance with his music

 

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The most famous of these stately villas is undoubtedly Villa Zliten. The dining room featured a floor with sixteen magnificent panels. Eight of these contain mosaics depicting fish and other marine life, rendered with extreme precision and detail

 

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A band mosaic shows us some lifelike scenes from the amphitheatre. For example, a fight between a bear and a bull, chained together so they couldn't escape each other. Or public executions where criminals or rebels were thrown to the wild animals

 

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Even more refined is the round mosaic depicting birds and other animals in a tree. The technique used, opus vermiculatum, allows the artist to create contrasts with tiny stones, thus emphasizing the contours around the figures

 

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The four seasons were a classic theme for Roman floor mosaics. This is also the case in Villa Zliten. Winter, autumn, spring, and summer are depicted clockwise in the centre, amidst five panels with marble inlays

 

 

 

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But the earthquake of 365, the fall of Rome in 476, the invasions of Berbers and Vandals did not do the prosperous cities any good

 

 

 

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After the Arabs arrived around 650, the ruins of Sabratha and Lepcis Magna were abandoned. Of the three illustrious cities of Tripolitana, only the least significant remains today, namely Oea. It survives as the capital of Libya under the name Tripoli

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Jaak Palmans
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